For boutique retail therapy, options abound. Ji Yeon Jung’s Recto is renowned for its refined and androgynous takes on wardrobe essentials (think: leather bombers, blazers, denim), and the brand’s new flagship in Hannam-dong—which is accented with Woorim Kang’s sculptural wood furnishings—provides a fittingly stylish setting to shop, while Korean fashion brand Ader Error’s Seongsu flagship sells its edgy streetwear in a futuristic, gallery-like setting. There’s also a cool crop of independent beauty boutiques worth scoping out, including home fragrance brand Soohyang’s new outpost in Apgujeong, Seongsu’s perfume shop Written on Water, and Whipped House (also in Seongsu), where you can make your own vegan face cleanser.
Where to eat in Seoul
Want to discover a lesser-known side of Korean cuisine? Bypass the barbecue, and instead try Pyongyang naengmyeon, North Korean buckwheat noodles in an icy beef broth, from Wooraeok and Jinmi Pyeongyang Naengmyeon. Another affordable everyday staple, kalguksu, or knife noodle soup, represents comfort in a bowl. Though it’s doled out all across the city, Myeongdong Kyoja has been serving up some of the best since 1966. (You can even ask for a free second helping of noodles.) And for sluggish mornings following late nights, a bowl of gamjatang (spicy pork bone soup) from Seongsu’s Somunnan Gamjatang, a standby hangover remedy that’s open 24 hours, will fix you right up.
While Seoul is packed with reputable, high-end establishments—Michelin-starred Jungsik and Mingles are among the best for contemporary Korean fine dining—street food is where you can tap into the city’s culinary soul cheaply and easily. Established in 1905, Gwangjang Market is South Korea’s oldest and largest market, and is always filled with hungry locals and out-of-towners hovering over crispy bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) and steaming bowls of kalguksu. Other markets you should have on your radar are the smaller-but-charming Mangwon Market and Tongin Market, and Noryangjin Fish Market, where you can shop the fresh seafood stalls, then have your selections prepared as you wish (raw, steamed, grilled) at one of its on-site restaurants.
Where to drink in Seoul
No longer overshadowed by Tokyo and Singapore, Seoul has emerged as one of Asia’s top cities for bars and cocktails. If you prefer to spend the night in one neighborhood, instead of bopping around, the hip neighborhood of Sindang has you covered with four spots: wine bar Soak, the Chinese zodiac-inspired Zoo Sindang, Jimbba (a traditional liquor shop and tasting room), and Gu, a wood-paneled bar turning out technique-driven cocktails. Though the subterranean speakeasy Pine & Co. is tricky to find—look for the reflective glass door, and climb downstairs—once you’ve arrived, you’ll be rewarded with whimsical drinks spotlighting Korean ingredients, like the refreshing Omija (Korean five-flavor berry) punch. For drinks that are easy on the palate and the environment, visit award-winning Zest, an innovative bar that champions sustainability.