What It’s Like to Stay at Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, in Portofino

Welcome to Checking In, a review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best new (and revamped) luxury hotels based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue-in-cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Does the bathroom have a bidet? Find out below.

Splendido, A Belmond Hotel

Describe the hotel in three words: Dolce Vita glamour

What’s the deal?

Set on a hill overlooking Portofino, the jewel of the Italian Riviera, the Splendido, A Belmond Hotel has been an icon of Italian hospitality for more than a century. It opened in 1901 in a 16^th-century Benedictine monastery—Renaissance monks and nuns always had the best real estate in Italy—and became a haven for VIPs and celebrities in the 1950s and ’60s. The signature spaghetti and tomato sauce is still served at La Terrazza as an homage to Elizabeth Taylor; the Duke of Windsor, Winston Churchill, Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall, and Ava Gardner also made themselves at home here.

Now run by Belmond, which is owned by LVMH, the Splendido has been undergoing a major renovation spearheaded by acclaimed designer Martin Brudnizki since 2023. The first areas to get Brudnizki’s Midas touch were the pool—now with jaunty red-orange umbrellas—the casual Splendido Grill adjacent to the pool, and the Baronessa Suite, which were redesigned in 2023. The lobby and most of the rooms were refreshed in 2024 (the room count was reduced to create larger suites). 

This year, a new cocktail bar called Baratta Sedici—in honor of Baron Baratta, who made the Splendido his summer home in the 1800s before it was a hotel—was introduced; the first permanent Dior Spa in Italy was launched; and Villa Beatrice, a five-bedroom villa with more than an acre of private parkland, was added to the hotel’s inventory. The last six rooms and the formal La Terrazza restaurant are slated for renovation next year.

The best room

Villa Beatrice, which is just a few minutes down the hill, functions as an independent villa with five bedrooms (four in the main building and one in a stone cottage). It also comes with private beach access, tiered gardens, a plunge pool, gym, and dedicated butler and chef service—though, naturally, guests also have full access to the restaurants and services at the Splendido, including the tennis courts and boutique. 

Inspired by the eclecticism of early 20^th-century architect Gino Coppedè (there’s a Coppedè district in Rome), Villa Beatrice features Art Nouveau details and romantic flourishes, including ceiling frescoes, terracotta floors, and intricate woodwork. It feels made for entertaining and can host up to 30 people for an aperitivo in the tower. Guests staying in the villa get perks like complimentary cooking classes, mixology workshops, yoga lessons, private training sessions, painting classes, and a guided tour of a nearby farm. Airport transfers from Genoa Airport and private chauffeur service to sister property Splendido Mare and the Bagni Fiore beach club in nearby Paraggi—run by Dior and Milan-based restaurant Langosteria—are also included.

The Rundown

Did they greet you by name at check-in?

Yes, the hotel’s team was ready and waiting for me upon my arrival via private transfer from the train station in the nearby town of Rapallo.

Welcome drink ready and waiting when you arrived? Bonus point if it wasn’t just fruit juice.

I wasn’t given a welcome drink at reception, but when I entered my suite, a chilled bottle of Veuve Clicquot was waiting for me, along with fresh fruit, a small cake made with local hazelnuts, and a box of sweets from the historic Genoese confectionery Romanengo.

Does the resort have a standout perk?

Few hotels in Italy—especially hotels of this size—have tennis courts. For the less athletically inclined, the heated, saltwater infinity pool is pretty much the epitome of il dolce far niente. If you want to look the part, the boutique has a very curated selection of clothes and accessories by hard-to-find labels such as Badura, which makes extremely high-quality leather bags in Rome.

Private butler for every room?

No, the majority of guests will have to make do without. Guests staying at Villa Beatrice get 24/7 access to a butler, who can arrange private dinners, shopping experiences at designer boutiques (Louis Vuitton and Pucci among them), lounge chairs and umbrellas at Bagni Fiore, and much more.

Is the sheet thread count higher than 300?

The sheets are a private label  for Belmond, made in Italy with 100 percent cotton. The label doesn’t specify the thread count, but the sheets certainly felt soft and luxurious.

Is there a heated floor in the bathroom?

No, but with the temperate Mediterranean climate, you won’t miss it. The hotel closes in the winter anyway. Besides, the bathrooms are equipped with more important things, like Comfort Zone sunscreen and Dyson hairdryers.

Are the toiletries full-sized?

Yes, Acqua di Parma bath products with a Mediterranean orange scent made exclusively for the hotel come in full-sized ceramic bottles—and they smell heavenly.

Is there a private pool for the room’s exclusive use?

No but that’s not really the point here. The infinity pool overlooking Portofino has a see-and-be-seen vibe; if you want a bit of privacy, there are loungers on a couple of secluded terraces. 

Is there a standout activity?

A boat ride along the coast aboard a traditional gozzo is a must. If the sea is calm, the captain will take you to visit the picturesque Abbey of San Fruttuoso, which is in a secluded cove, and stop to let you swim. If the sea is a bit too choppy in that area, you’ll sail up to Santa Margherita Ligure, another charming town on the Riviera.

Are the restaurants worth their salt?

The two restaurants at the Splendido have you more than covered. (Though, let’s be real: This is the Italian Riviera, so if you’re not gorging yourself on pasta, seafood, and focaccia you’re doing something wrong.)

The more formal restaurant, La Terrazza, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner with fabulous views from the terrace. The breakfast buffet, though modest in size, has a selection of homemade pastries and cakes, local cheeses, charcuterie, yogurt, and fresh fruit—all of very high quality—and made-to-order eggs are included. (Try the signature Portofino-style scrambled eggs with tomato cream, stracchino cream, and pesto powder.) It takes on a romantic air at dinner, when the tables are lit by candlelight and the chef serves gourmet dishes like blue Mediterranean lobster pizzata as well as perfectly executed classics, including the ‘Homage to Elizabeth Taylor’ (spaghetti with tomatoes in three consistencies) and trofie with pesto. Save room for dessert—the breakfast room is converted into a dessert room in the evenings with a selection of freshly baked cakes, fruit tarts, and cannoli filled to order.

At Splendido Grill, the casual restaurant, you’ll find the freshest grilled seafood and meat. Choose from the catch of the day—displayed on ice at the counter—or opt for classic dishes like grilled octopus served with silky soft red peppers, Taggiasca olives, and tarragon. Don’t worry, there’s excellent pasta here, too. The agnolotti del Ponente stuffed with tomatoes and topped with raw shrimp from Santa Margherita Ligure and stracchino cheese from Val d’Aveto is a highlight.

Is there caviar on the room service menu? If so, what kind?

Technically no, but there’s Beluga and Royal Calvisius on the menu at the Grill, and should you request it delivered to your room, the hotel’s staff will happily oblige. The room service menu has something even more precious though: the trofie with pesto from La Terrazza, which is made with DOP basil from Pra, an aromatic variety nicknamed “green gold” that’s native to Liguria.

Do you want to spend Friday night in the lobby bar?

Absolutely. The new Baratta Sedici has tables on the outdoor terrace adjacent to La Terrazza, but the interiors are also impossibly chic. The bar—made of white onyx—glows softly from within, inviting you to pull up a stool. Unless, of course, you’d rather cozy up on the sofa for a little tête-à-tête. The bartenders are well versed in all the classics, but their original creations are tempting. If you like almonds, the Conte Baratta made with gin, Ligurian orange liqueur, almond syrup, lemon juice, and egg whites is a standout.

Would you buy the hotel if you could?

Without hesitation—if only LVMH would put it up for sale!

The Verdict

Thanks to its subtle and sophisticated glow-up, the Splendido shines brightly as an icon of Italian hospitality—and frankly it’s the only way to do Portofino. No other hotel on the Riviera can hold a candle to it. It’s the perfect blend of rich heritage, prestigious location, gorgeous design, superlative dining and drinking, and warm Italian hospitality. A best-in-class hotel in one of Europe’s most glamorous destinations.

Score: 10
Rates: Entry-level rooms from $3,490 in high season; Signature Suites from $8,417; Villa Beatrice rates available upon request.

What Our Score Means: 
1-3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you stay here. 
4-6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch. 

7-8: Very good. We’d stay here again and recommend it without qualms. 
9-10: Forget booking a week. When can we move in permanently?