What you need to know before visiting the Amalfi Coast for the first time.
Exploring the Amalfi Coast
If you’ve ever dreamed of a taste of Italy dressed as a swirl of sea, stone, and sunlight, then the Amalfi Coast is for you.
It’s a destination where elegance meets ancient rhythm, where dinner might mean hand-painted plates on a candlelit terrace, and mornings begin with bells echoing through tiled courtyards.
At its best, this sliver of southern Italy has become a haven for artists, poets, and those seeking unforgettable moments, and why it often forms the heart of carefully curated luxury vacations.
But what makes the Amalfi Coast endure is not just its beauty. It’s the way time softens here, like sea glass, inviting you to stay longer, breathe slower, and look twice.
We absolutely love the place, and the area nearby, which stretches from Sorrento to Naples and have visited time and time again.
However, if this is your first time visiting the Amalfi Coast, then you do need to be careful. Its popularity and heat mean that some spots at some times can become a nightmare. Between the crowds and the traffic, you can lose some of the magic unless you know what you’re doing.
And that’s what this guide to the Amalfi Coast for first timers is all about.
First Time Guide to the Amalfi Coast: An Overview
Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the entire stretch of the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy balances the elements. Vineyards lean into cliffs. Walkways slip between houses. Ceramics brighten the corners of main squares and the sea sparkles throughout.
Choosing Among the Amalfi Coast Towns
Every traveller arrives with a version of the coast already in mind. For some, it’s Positano, all colour and curve and steps that run forever. For others, it’s Amalfi Town, with its carved cathedral front and tidy arcades leading to the sea.
Ravello draws those who move more slowly. Music fills the air from April onwards, especially near Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone, where the gardens seem to float above the water.
Beyond the better-known stops, you’ll find quieter rhythms. In Praiano, Cetara, and Conca dei Marini, doors stay open to neighbours, and menus feature anchovies caught a few hours earlier.
Minori and Maiori are wider and flatter, making them better suited for longer walks and long lunches.
Vietri sul Mare, often the first or last stop for those arriving by road, is covered in hand-painted ceramic tile: walls, stairways, even flowerpots.
Sorrento, technically outside the UNESCO boundary, offers a practical central location with a train station, comfortable hotels and access to ferries. It often serves well as a home base, particularly for those who want to combine a visit to the coast with a trip to Pompeii, Naples, or Mount Vesuvius.
And, though I hate sharing this place because I love it so much, St Agata in the mountains offers a cooler but no less beautiful spot and a great base, even though, again, it is technically outside the UNESCO boundaries.
Planning How Much Time You Need
Three full days work well for a first visit. Five give you space to try more than one of the coastal towns, while a full week means you can travel by boat, on foot, and by chance.
If you’re visiting with children, you’ll need to extend this time so that everyone can keep up.
When to Go: Seasons, Sunshine and Sweet Spots
The Amalfi Coast changes with the light. From March to November, the landscape carries a different energy each month: fields thick with wildflowers in early spring, cool stone stairways under full sun in high summer, evenings that begin with a sea breeze by early autumn.
High Season vs Shoulder Months
The summer months (especially July and August) bring heat, movement, and a lot, lot, lot of people. This is the peak season, when ferries run frequently, shops stay open late, and every coastal path sees footfall. It’s also the high season for prices and traffic.
Either side of this period (May to June and September into early October) offers a better balance. The light softens, the food is just as fresh, and tables at small restaurants are easier to come by. For many, this is the best time to visit.
Why Late September is Ideal
Late September brings the calm of early autumn with the warmth of summer still intact. Sea temperatures stay comfortable, sunsets linger, and the pace begins to settle. It’s a good idea to visit then, especially if you prefer spending much time outdoors without the crowds.
Getting There
Getting to the Amalfi Coast, Italy, is part of the experience. The journey may involve a few connections, but each leg brings you closer to the rhythm of the coast.
Arriving via Naples or Salerno
The closest airport to the Amalfi Coast is Naples Airport, just over an hour from Sorrento by road. From there, the journey continues by car, train or sea. Alternatively, Salerno makes a convenient entry point, particularly if arriving from elsewhere in Italy by high-speed train.
Both routes offer distinct advantages. Naples provides more international connections; Salerno delivers a smoother transition if you need to reach a small town beyond Positano.
Public Transportation: Buses, Ferries and Trains
Travelling without a car is not only possible; it’s often the best way. Roads are narrow, and parking lots in towns are few and costly.
Between Sorrento, Amalfi and Positano, the SITA bus system offers regular service, with a bus stop in each key village and sweeping views along the way.
Ferries connect little towns like Amalfi, Positano, Minori, and Vietri sul Mare, with terminals in Salerno and Sorrento. These run more frequently in warmer months and can be found at each ferry terminal or ferry port. Timetables vary seasonally, so checking ahead is essential.
From Naples or Salerno, regional trains link easily to Sorrento or Vietri. In some cases, a short taxi ride from the train station completes the journey.
Private Transfers, Drivers and Car Hire
For greater comfort, many opt for a private driver or private transfer, especially when travelling with luggage or arriving late. Roads are winding, and locals drive with the confidence of experience. A driver allows you to enjoy the views without the stress.
If hiring a car, expect manual transmissions, ZTL zones (restricted traffic areas), and tight turns. Cars can be useful for inland villages but are less practical along the coastal road. Be prepared to park outside town centres and walk in.
Whatever else, driving here is not for the faint of heart. Roads are narrow, busy, and local drivers are fearless. We’ve loved the freedom of our own wheels but toughened up our skills driving in the mountains of southern Spain first. You have been warned!
Google Maps, Cards and Getting Around
Google Maps works well for most routes, though ferry and bus schedules often require checking local apps or boards.
Cash is still useful, but most places accept a credit card, especially in mid-range and luxury establishments.
Tickets for buses and ferries are best bought in advance at kiosks or via apps. Many hotels can assist with bookings to keep travel smooth and easy to access.
Picking the Right Home Base
Where you stay along the Amalfi Coast will shape your experience, not just in terms of logistics, but also rhythm.
A base in the hills lends itself to quiet mornings and walks through lemon groves. A base by the sea means market runs, ferries, and waves brushing against your thoughts.
Positano gives you drama: balconies stacked like amphitheatres, beach clubs, and boutiques. For easy access to ferries and day tours, Amalfi Town offers a central home base with a little bit of everything: history, food, and transport links.
Ravello invites longer stays, especially if you’re drawn to music or writing. Its hilltop calm pairs well with a morning espresso and a slow afternoon in the gardens of Villa Cimbrone.
Sorrento, with its train station and ferry port, works as a good option if you plan to explore inland or beyond the coast.
The Best Day Trips Nearby
From most towns, it is simple to arrange a day trip. A private boat charter lets you slip along the coastline or cross to Capri, where the Blue Grotto glows beneath chalk cliffs. Ferries also connect to Ischia and Salerno, both ideal for a full day out.
Inland, there’s Mount Vesuvius, with its black earth and cooled lava trails, or the haunting streets of Pompeii. From Sorrento, you can visit these by train or as part of a private transfer with a driver.
For something slower, local wineries in Tramonti and the surrounding hills offer guided wine tasting, while several villages host cooking classes in private homes or farm kitchens.
I love this one, which you can find here: xx
Exploring the Coast, Village by Village
Each town has its own rhythm. Some suit a few hours; others hold your attention for days.
Positano: Iconic Views and Glamour
Start in Positano if you want to feel the scale of the Amalfi Coast immediately. Arriving by ferry is best. The cliffs rise quickly, painted with coral, peach, and lemon façades. You step off into a world that feels built for beauty.
Spend the morning on Spiaggia Grande or walk to Fornillo Beach if you prefer something quieter. Reserve a lounger at one of the beach clubs or just bring a towel and settle on the public section.
Take your time climbing the town’s tiled stairways. Stop in a ceramic shop for a traditional Italian souvenir, buy fresh fruit, peek into a church. Then make your way to lunch (Le Sirenuse if you’re celebrating, or a shaded trattoria further up for seafood pasta with fewer people and better views).
Don’t rush out. Sunset here casts the whole town in gold, and there’s an honesty to it that goes deeper than the postcards.
Amalfi: History and Heritage
Amalfi feels more grounded in practicality, for better and for worse. Walk straight into the main square, and you’ll find the cathedral steps. Sit for a minute. Watch children playing tag across the stone, locals weaving past them on bikes.
Climb the steps to Duomo di Sant’Andrea, then go further into the cloister to enjoy the silence. For something different, visit the Museum of Handmade Paper, a small but thoughtful stop that links you to the town’s past through pulp and linen.
Eat lunch on Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi. Then take a walk along the promenade or hop on a ferry to Minori for dessert – sfogliatella from Sal De Riso’s bakery is worth the trip.
Ravello: Music, Gardens and Villas
Ravello is the retreat. If you need a day with fewer crowds and more sky, come here.
Start at Villa Rufolo for its arches, flowers, and occasional rehearsals. Musicians from the summer festival practise in rooms that open onto views of the Gulf of Naples. You might walk into a Vivaldi quartet by accident.
From there, head to Villa Cimbrone. The beautiful gardens offer space, quiet, and the kind of terrace that makes you stay longer than planned. There’s a café tucked inside the grounds, perfect for espresso or a glass of something white.
And I love the view on the promenade of statues. It’s one of the best I’ve ever seen.
Sorrento: Gateway to the Coast
Sorrento works well as a central location, especially if you’re combining the Amalfi Coast with trips to Pompeii, Naples, or Mount Vesuvius.
Start in Piazza Tasso, then wander towards the cliffs. You’ll find public gardens, shaded paths and terraces overlooking the sea. From Marina Piccola, ferries connect to Capri, Ischia, and the Amalfi towns.
Explore the local town streets behind the main drag. They’re full of family-run shops selling limoncello, leather sandals, and handmade stationery.
If you’re after food, this is where you’ll find some of the best restaurants for gnocchi alla sorrentina or fish cooked with capers and olives.
Vietri sul Mare: Artistry by the Sea
Vietri sul Mare feels like a working town, which is part of its charm. It’s known for ceramics: whole façades, benches, and staircases wear tiles like jewellery.
You can visit a ceramic studio here, many of which still fire their work on-site. Some offer brief demonstrations or sales direct from the kiln. Look out for wall tiles with birds, lemons, or mermaids, symbols that echo through the town.
The seafront is smaller than Amalfi’s, but quieter. It’s a good place to grab lunch, especially grilled anchovies or scialatielli with clams.
Praiano & Conca dei Marini: Quiet Corners with Character
If you’re looking for places that feel unhurried, with sea views but fewer voices, head to Praiano or Conca dei Marini. These small towns offer space to breathe, especially if you’ve spent time in Positano or Amalfi.
Praiano sits between the bigger names, with a quieter atmosphere and steps that still lead to tiled churches and seafood kitchens.
There’s a small beach down at Marina di Praia, framed by cliffs and old fishermen’s caves. From there, you can book a kayak or take a boat tour along the coast.
Conca dei Marini is smaller still. You come here for the breathtaking views, a slower pace, and the scent of lemons thick in the air. For more off-the-beaten-track recommendations, don’t miss our guide to unusual things to do in Italy.
Inside tip: the Emerald Grotto is a popular local spot, less well known than the Blue Grotto, and reached by a lift or a long set of stairs.
Maiori & Minori: Family Spots with Deep Roots
These two towns share a promenade and a story. Maiori holds the longest beach on the Amalfi Coast. Minori, just around the headland, is smaller and known for food, especially lemon desserts and pasta-making traditions.
If you’re travelling with children or prefer flatter walking paths, this area is a great place to settle in. Start your day with a cappuccino at a beachfront café in Maiori, then follow the coastal path to Minori. It’s a short, scenic walk, and a good one for stretching your legs before lunch.
In Minori, visit the Roman Maritime Villa and stop for a plate of handmade scialatielli. There’s no fuss here, just well-seasoned food in a local town where everyday life continues even in high season.
This is also where you’ll find Sal De Riso’s famous pasticceria. Sit at a sea-facing table with a slice of delizia al limone and you’ll understand why it’s one of our favourite places for dessert on the coast.
Cetara: Fishing Traditions and Anchovy Secrets
Cetara doesn’t feel like it’s waiting to be discovered. It just gets on with things. The harbour holds working boats, and if you arrive early, you might see crates of anchovies being hauled ashore, bound for the town’s most famous product: colatura di alici.
This amber-coloured anchovy essence has been made here for centuries, using a traditional fermentation process. Several small producers offer tastings or short visits, especially in the shoulder seasons.
There’s a small beach tucked into the cove and a handful of restaurants serving fried anchovies with lemon and parsley, or spaghetti made with colatura and breadcrumbs.
It’s a good option for lunch if you’re travelling the coastal road by car or by driver, as parking is more manageable here than in the larger towns.
Capri: Coves, Chairlifts and the Blue Grotto
Though technically not part of the mainland Amalfi Coast, Capri is too close (and too compelling) to leave out.
Take a boat trip from Positano or Sorrento or book a private boat if you’d like to circumnavigate the island at your own pace.
Most routes stop at the Blue Grotto, where sunlight filters through underwater caverns and refracts into a deep, luminous blue. Entry depends on tide and timing, but even passing by is worth the detour.
Once on land, take the funicular from Marina Grande up to Capri Town, then stroll through the narrow lanes towards the best restaurants tucked behind high garden walls. From Anacapri, you can ride the chairlift to Monte Solaro for wide-angle views across the Gulf of Naples.
What to Do (and Truly Feel)
Days on the Amalfi Coast hold layers: sea spray on warm skin, thyme on grilled fish, church bells folding into waves. The following choices gather the best things we have tried over many visits, activities that allow the coast to settle under the skin rather than flash past the lens.
Sailing the Amalfi: Ferries and Private Boats
Step aboard a morning ferry in Amalfi, lean against the rail, and watch pastel houses slide across the waterline. Public boat tours run from spring through autumn, linking Positano, Amalfi, Capri and Salerno.
For extra freedom, charter a private boat and shape the day yourself: pause beneath the cliffs of Praiano, swim in lilac-coloured grottoes, glide into Capri’s Blue Grotto when the tide invites.
A sunset boat ride returns with peach-toned light on the domes, a quiet reward for leaving land behind.
Walking the Clifftops: Path of the Gods
Above the tiled rooftops, mule tracks weave between rosemary bushes and stone terraces. The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) links Bomerano to Nocelle across six panoramic kilometres.
A local tour guide enriches the route with stories of shepherds and Saracen watchtowers, though an independent walk works equally well. Carry water, start early, and linger at the viewpoint halfway; the best views include Capri on clear days.
From Nocelle, descend countless steps to Positano or follow a short walk into Montepertuso for lemon granita on a shady terrace.
We completed this gorgeous route years ago, with Headwater, who moved our luggage between hotels.
Cooking, Tasting, and Toasting
Hands-on flavour deepens memory. Home kitchens in Minori open for half-day cooking classes: knead scialatielli, slice aubergines for parmigiana, finish with a drizzle of local olive oil.
Inland, Tramonti’s vineyards line volcanic slopes; arrange a guided tour with the winemaker, taste tintore grapes still warm from the sun, and compare oak-aged reserves in a vaulted cellar.
Where to Stay: Hotels, Hideaways and Cliffside Charm
Bookings fill fast in peak months, so reserve well ahead, especially if you want a sea view or minimal stairs. Prioritise location and ease: steep walks and steps are part of the region’s daily life, and not all properties suit every traveller.
Amalfi’s Top Luxury Stays
If you’re after comfort and a sense of occasion, several addresses deliver. Le Sirenuse in Positano sets the standard for a luxury hotel: candlelit terraces, discreet service, and suites with French doors that open onto panoramic Tyrrhenian blue.
Ravello’s Belmond Caruso and Monastero Santa Rosa in Amalfi pair infinity pools with the drama of steep cliffs, ideal for a slow breakfast above the bustle.
Mid-Range and Boutique Options
A boutique hotel in a central location, like Sorrento’s Maison Il Conservatorio or Palazzo Vingius in Maiori, means easy access to ferries, restaurants and shops.
Praiano is a good option if you prefer quieter nights, hillside paths, and local family-run charm.
Many of these stays come with terraces or balconies for lazy afternoons.
What to Know Before You Book: 3 Top Tips
1. Check how many steps separate your room from the nearest road.
2. Ask about luggage help and parking in advance. Some places require a walk from the drop-off point or shuttle, and car spaces are limited.
3. Early reservations guarantee the best views, especially in May, June, and September.
Where to Eat: From Fine Dining to Lemon Gelato
Food on the Amalfi Coast is a daily highlight, best enjoyed at the right table in the right light. Menus change with the catch and the season, and the freshest meals are rarely far from the water.
Local Dishes to Try
Start with favourite things: spaghetti with clams, scialatielli al limone, and fritto misto straight from the morning boats. Don’t miss lemon desserts, especially the feather-light delizia al limone or a scoop of creamy gelato on a hot afternoon.
Standout Spots Across the Coast
For candlelit classics, great restaurants like Da Vincenzo in Positano set the tone.
In Minori, grab a seat at Sal De Riso for the region’s best pastries.
Lunch in a local town can be as memorable as any fine dining – grab lunch at a trattoria in Cetara or a shaded table in Vietri sul Mare.
Early reservations are wise, especially for the best restaurants overlooking the sea.
Tips for Dining Like a Local
1. Locals linger over long meals, often starting in the early afternoon and stretching into the evening.
2. In smaller villages, check opening times, as some kitchens close between lunch and dinner.
3. Many popular places accept credit cards, but it’s always handy to carry some cash for family-run spots and tips.
Especially interested in Italian food? Don’t miss our guide to Trieste’s unique culinary scene and this authentic ragu recipe that will bring a taste of Italy home with you.
Amalfi From One Day to Five
There’s no single Amalfi Coast itinerary that fits everyone, but a little planning ensures you experience the best places, even if you have only a short window. Whether it’s your first time or a return trip, these options help you make the most of your stay.
One-Day Cruise Stop
A single day can still deliver a surprise. Join a local paper-making demonstration in Amalfi or ask a guide to show you the Duomo’s hidden crypt. Slip into a side street for a lemon-scented espresso, then catch a quick ferry to Positano.
Instead of the main beach, find the steps to Fornillo or check out the lesser-known Roman Archaeological Museum under the church.
If your schedule is tight, arrange a private transfer and request a short stop at Fiordo di Furore, a dramatic fjord that’s often missed on busier itineraries.
Three Days to Wander
On your first evening, sign up for a small-group cooking lesson in a family kitchen – learn to shape pasta and try your hand at mixing a limoncello spritz.
Take an early morning swim when the beaches belong to locals, or visit Ravello’s market for ceramics that rarely appear in the souvenir shops.
If you’re in Amalfi on a Sunday, step into the cathedral for a local mass; the music and community create a moment tourists rarely see.
For your final night, ask for the rooftop table in a small trattoria—these often go unadvertised but offer some of the best views on the coast.
Five-Day First-Timer Plan
More days open up time for the unexpected. Spend one morning walking with a forager, learning about wild herbs still used in local kitchens, or join a short history walk through Minori’s Roman ruins before the crowds arrive.
Rent bikes in Maiori and follow the coastal path, pausing at fruit stalls and lesser-known chapels. Dedicate an afternoon to wine tasting in Tramonti’s highland vineyards, then catch a sunset folk concert in a piazza – festival posters appear on noticeboards and are worth hunting down.
With five days, you’ll have enough time to visit a sculpture garden in Ravello, book a sunrise boat trip for swimming in hidden coves, and return to your favourite places as a regular, not just a guest.
How to Fall in Love With the Amalfi Coast
Choose the best option for your pace, and you’ll find this coastline is always a good idea.
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