When Giorgio Armani’s death was announced on 4 September, tributes from those who knew the man himself — and those who admired his work from afar — flooded in. Alongside these odes to one of the most impactful designers of the 20th century came discussions about what the founder’s death means for the brand.
Armani and his team had kept mostly quiet on succession plans. But in what would be his last interview, Armani spoke about the transition for the Financial Times. One name came up outside of those related to him. “My plans for succession consist of a gradual transition of the responsibilities that I have always handled to those closest to me, such as Leo Dell’Orco, the members of my family and the entire working team,” he said. “I would like the succession to be organic and not a moment of rupture.”
Dell’Orco, head of the men’s style office for all collections, who has been at Armani for 45 years, was the one who bowed at the two menswear shows Armani missed in Milan in June, as well as July’s Armani Privé couture show, while Armani was recovering from illness. It was the first time he’d ever missed a show (though, he insisted, he was present via video for every step of prep).
Dell’Orco, 72, has been at the company since 1977, soon after the company’s 1975 founding. He was born in Bisceglie, in Bari, Italy, and first met the late designer in a park in Milan as a young man. Dell’Orco worked closely with Armani designing collections for many years, but 2021 was the first time that he walked out alongside Armani after the menswear show in Milan, which Vogue Runway’s Luke Leitch described as an “unusual move” at the time. After the show, Armani told Leitch of Dell’Orco: “He’s been with me for 60 [actually more like 40] years, so maybe finally he’s matured! We often clash, but the results, I think, are very good. And we have Silvana [Armani, his niece] in womenswear. So I am preparing my future, with the people who are around me, in my home.”
Other key figures expected to play a role in the company’s succession include Armani’s nieces Silvana Armani (mentioned above), who worked alongside Armani to design the women’s collections and Roberta Armani (who manages celebrity and entertainment relations), as well as nephew Andrea Camerana (Armani’s sustainability managing director).