There was a very specific mood at Ralph Lauren this season, one rooted in modern sensuality, a sense of escapism, ample ease with restraint and minimalist touches. Held at the company’s headquarters at 650 Madison Avenue with celebrity guests including Naomi Watts, Laura Dern, Jessica Chastain, Priyanka and Nick Jonas, Maggie Rogers, Ariana DeBose, and Usher (the face of the new Ralph’s Club New York eau de parfum), the intimate show’s focus was on the clothes and attitude over spectacle.
It proved to be a strong message throughout the lineup, with strict shades of black, white and red leading his codes of mannish tailoring for the modern woman, signature sarong dressing and seductive day-to-eveningwear. It was a purposeful flip from fall’s moody, Edwardian-infused lineup — Lauren desired a collection that was sharp and graphic, which it was with its beautiful clean lines amplified with sculptural jewelry. It also was a nice surprise when many in the industry have been leaning heavily into prep — a hallmark of Lauren’s legacy — which here was only peppered in.
During a preview, fabric experimentation was front and center. These were tried and true Ralph Lauren classics, but with chic new twists. Case in point: his famous rustic denim overalls and a slipdress, here patchworked together one-by-one with eight white remnant fabrications from the collection, including parachute poplin, silk, cotton and linen. A striking ruffle-edge bustier was in fact made of stretch leather while a skirt suit was crafted from eyelash-thin napa leather embroidered onto linen, to name two.
The sarong, a Ralph signature often worn by the likes of his wife, Ricky Lauren, came in many strong, inventive constructions, from a red fluid satin dress to ultra cool, twisted takes on the menswear shirt and tie, enhancing his escapist mindset. Ditto to his emphasis on the boyfriend shirt — exploded into tunics or worn off-the-shoulder over a black jersey dress; new bottoms spanning from pencil skirts and pedal pushers to breezy ultrawide men’s trousers to great ballooning satin harem pants; wide brim straw hats; tactile handbags, and flat footwear.
His head-turning strapless white gown, light as air in a combination of parachute poplin and linen gauze with a dazzling sequined bra top, evoked simplistic sensuality, while a black knit frock featuring long, lacquered sequins between its ribs beamed sportif sexiness. Quiet but seductive propositions of desirable eveningwear for today.
His spring show was a sharp and refined proposition for modern dress — it’s no surprise Lauren was on Wednesday announced an American Womenswear Designer of the Year nominee for the 2025 CFDA Awards. He is a true pioneer American fashion who continues to lead the pack.