【F】 The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles

The Hermès H08 is a remarkable success story. Emerging from the traditional and complex designs of the maison’s catalog, the cushion-shaped H08 in titanium seamlessly cut through the crowd. And the sports-watch segment is indeed crowded. Yet, the H08 takes the history of the brand’s multifaceted design approach and boils it down into a wearable everyday timepiece. For the launch today, the H08 receives a light gray dial with subtle and contrasting finishing in two variations. The first has a crystal-sandblasted and rhodium-plated dial against a nickel-treated circular satin-brushed minute track. The H08 with bleu Saint-Cyr numerals has the same dial with a more contrasting black-gold-treated circular-brushed minute ring.

With its atypical watch case shape, the Hermès H08 automatically gets put up against contemporary competitors from Bvlgari, Nomos, and H. Moser. But calling the H08 a square watch does it a disservice. The H08 is far more curvaceous than it appears straight on. Each side rises to a center and falls gracefully. Despite its blocky nature, it’s difficult to find a single straight line on the H08 case. This illusion is a testament to the French fashion house’s meticulous approach to design and playing with optics. Another standout is the numerals marking the hours. Designed by Philippe Delhotal, the artistic director of Hermès Horloger, these Arabic numerals echo the cushion theme of the case. Thankfully, the window at 4:30 has a date disc that also follows this typeface design.

The Hermès H08 with a touch of vibrant orange

First up is the gray dial with a nickel-treated minute track. The choice of a gray dial within the titanium case acts as an extension of the cushion design. Blurring the lines between case and dial gives the H08 a seamless look rather than high contrast. And given the Hermès collaboration with Apple, it also makes the H08 look less like an Apple Watch. It is not that the owners will get confused, but others may assume a dark dial within a “square” timepiece is a smartwatch from a distance. Opting for the H08 on the matching Grade 5 titanium bracelet furthers the infinite-loop aesthetic. If I were to choose, though, I would go for the vibrant orange rubber strap. This goes against my rule to buy the bracelet and get the strap later, but visually tying the orange rubber strap to the tip of the central seconds hand makes sense.

The seconds hand itself is also interesting since the counterbalance end is the same length as the indicating end. Squaring off the counterbalance is a shape mirroring the cushion case and round dial. Hermès fills the H08 with wondrous surprises and delightful features that wearers can truly appreciate. The way the dial curves up at the edges gives the composition a concrete-like appearance. This brutalist layout makes the H08 more of an urban sports watch than a rural adventurous style. The semi-skeletonized minute hand is also clever because it allows the wearer to line up the minutes when setting the time, even though it overlaps the inner minute track. Cool details like this and the Super-LumiNova application make the H08 highly functional despite its fashion roots.

Hermès H08 with light blue numerals

As the two versions of today’s H08 release share the exact dimensions, let’s get to them. Both have a 39mm diameter, a 10.6mm thickness, and a 42mm lug-to-lug. That last measurement gives you the best sense of the watch’s wearing presence. Given the short lugs, the H08 is adaptable to most wrist sizes for gentlemen and ladies. Always try before you buy, but these dimensions open up the H08 to a broad audience. The lightweight titanium construction maintains a good feel without weighing your wrist down. Unlike the previous version, the bleu Saint-Cyr H08 only comes with a choice of two rubber straps with a central weave pattern. Either dark gray or numeral-matching blue shades are available, but the Grade 5 titanium butterfly clasp has a nice hidden aspect.

There is a micro-adjustment on the deployant that you don’t often see on clasps of this type. Having a sliding adjustment gives you all-day wearing comfort, regardless of your activity. The other H08 above does have more strap options, including black, orange, and bleu abysse in rubber or fabric webbing in blue and black. For this second one, I’d also choose the light blue 21mm-wide rubber strap to match the numerals on the dial. Where these models also differ is the higher-contrast bezel and minute track. While the first version has a satin-brushed titanium bezel with mirror polishing on the chamfers, the second version’s bezel matches the finishing techniques but is black ceramic instead. The minute track also uses a black gold treatment with circular satin brushing. There’s undoubtedly more distinction between each section with the punchy blue numerals and hands harmonizing with the date disc.

Final specs and pricing

Powering the H08 is the 3.7mm-thick Hermès H1837. This mechanism is manufactured by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier specifically for the H08. Vaucher also produces movements for Parmigiani and Richard Mille, and Hermès has a 25% stake in the high-end movement manufacture. The H1837 features automatic winding, and the emblematic alternating “H” pattern emblazoned across the top plates and rotor is visible through the case back’s flat sapphire display. While there isn’t superlative finishing on every component, the chamfering on the edges of the plate and balance cock is a nice touch. The signature H-pattern, perlage on the mainplate, and snailing elsewhere also catch the eye. With a 50-hour power reserve and Incabloc shock resistance, the H08 is more than capable for everyday use.

The screw-down crown with an engraved Hermès “H” also helps provide a 100m depth rating. I would still get the light gray dial with orange rubber strap for my money. Hermès packaging is often orange, so the color ties in with the brand’s theme and nails the sporty spirit. Either option is available for £6,340 and only from the Hermès network of boutiques. Not every Hermès boutique sells watches, so check ahead with your local boutique for availability. You can also discover more Hermès H08 variants via the website here.

Watch specifications