How to Embrace Wool for All Seasons

The Scottish summer is an unpredictable beast.  I recently returned to my homeland after more than a decade away and found that I had, somehow, forgotten the true wild nature of the season.  Anyone who has ever taken a golf holiday in the sport’s home will know what I’m talking about: the sky flits from blue to grey and back again quicker than you can play a par 4.  The sun hangs in the sky until almost 11pm, but whether and when she will choose to impart her true warmth is anyone’s guess.

That changeability brings a need for equally adaptable clothing.  Many of us here, this writer included, opt for garments in a light, fine-gauge wool.  Hear me out, it’s not as crazy as it sounds.

The words ‘Scottish wool’ will, in the minds of most, conjure images of heavy tweeds and thick jumpers.  There is so much more to it than that.  Fine cashmere – as in exceptionally thin strands, not (only) quality – and merino wools are what we’re looking for here, knitted in a more open weave than for other seasons.  Wool can be worn directly against the skin and will repel the sweat and oil it comes into contact with, meaning it can be thrown on as a single layer without needing to be cleaned after only one wear like cotton will.  The same thermo-regulating properties which enable it to trap heat in colder moments allow it to release that warmth when required, meaning your garment will adapt to the fluctuations in temperature for you, rather than you having to constantly add and remove layers.  The touch of cashmere and merino, the way they interact and flow with the shape of the wearer, make the aesthetic more flattering and comfortable.  They are as practical as they are luxurious.

Many high-end brands are aware of the magical properties of summer wool.  The best are Scottish, or use Scottish makers.  Heritage luxury house Johnstons of Elgin make a gorgeous version of the plain white tee in cashmere, easily styled with all manner of outfits from beach shorts to evening suits, or a more relaxed cut in superfine merino.  Just a touch further south, England’s Sunspel blend cashmere with Sea Island cotton to create super-light long-sleeve jumpers, which can easily be styled as short sleeved and over shorts, as I often do.  Starting with versatile staples such as these is an ideal way to begin your warm-weather wool conversion.

A button-up shirt is also a great option for summer wool.  I often wear a camp collar shirt in ultrafine merino from boutique luxury brand King & Tuckfield simply thrown over a tank top; the open mesh weave of the wool complements the same in the tank and provides excellent breathability and/or warmth as required.  Simple, classic cardigans work in the same way: Begg x Co make theirs on the Ayrshire coast in a classic undyed tone which will gleam in the sun; storied English tailoring house dunhill present theirs in light pastel tones to underline their suitability to warmer, sunnier days.  Any of these can be worn alone or over a smaller base layer to create a day-to-night look which will keep you feeling good in the heat.

Of course, not everywhere has a summer like Scotland’s.  The lessons in wool our climate teaches, however, do apply around the world – as seasons begin to change, as the breeze begins to whip across you while sailing, or even when you need to cover against sunburn without overheating from your core – and will help upgrade your summer luxe style.  Trust me, once you’ve tried it you won’t go back.