How Tod’s Latest Menswear Collection Raises the Bar on Leather Working

For Tod’s Group chairman Diego Della Valle, investing in craftsmanship is a driving principle. It even extends to realms beyond Tod’s HQ. For proof, look to the 286-page book, Italian Hands: Artisanal Stories From Italy. The company published it earlier this summer as a way to spotlight makers at the highest level of their technique, whose rarefied expertise might otherwise be at risk of extinction.

But as any luxury executive knows, the work such artisans can do is limited only by the quality of the raw materials on their benches. With the introduction of its new Pashmy collection, Tod’s is aiming to raise the bar on leather sourcing and engineering.

The name alone, a nod to cashmere, signals just how soft and silky it is. “Tod’s Pashmy project represents the highest expression of leather selection in terms of lightness and softness, evoking the refinement of pashmina,” says Della Valle, who certainly knows his way around a ring shawl: His recognizable uniform features one knotted at the neck in place of a tie. “At the heart of Pashmy is the concept of artisanal intelligence—a philosophy that puts people and their skills at the center of fashion, preserving traditional know-how while ensuring that the human touch remains fundamental to the creative and developmental process.”

Only highly skilled craftspeople, such as those at Tod’s production facility in Italy’s Marche region, are capable of working the Pashmy leathers—reduced to just 0.5 millimeters in thickness—without compromising structural integrity. Most leathers lose body or durability when handled to such a degree. That unique property results in utilitarian staples such as rucksacks, puffer jackets, and driving sneakers that marry softness with resilience. A double-dyeing process ensures particularly rich hues (including a most covetable chocolate brown) while a naturally derived stain-resistant waterproofing treatment enables the hides to remain soft, breathable, and protected from the elements.

“It is the quality of the materials, combined with the skill of the human hand, that truly makes the difference,” says Della Valle. In an era of corner-cutting and A.I., it’s a lesson other luxury brands would do well to remember.