Interested in climbing Sigiriya Rock in Sri Lanka? Allow me to walk you through the process.
Climbing Sigiriya
It begins before dawn. The air, thick with the scent of earth and jasmine, clings to your skin as you approach the base of Sigiriya. The world is silent, save for the chirp of crickets and sharp rustling as the jungle yawns into wakefulness.
Or at least, that’s how I dreamt it would be.
In reality, I was racing against the clock, feet clanging on steel, thunder ominous in the distance, lightning closer to hand. Instead of the sun’s first rays spilling amber rock into gold, I was wiping rain and sweat from my face and catching gulps of air to make it up and back in time.
As I said to the photographer travelling with me, there’s no way a photo of me doing this is going to convince anyone to come here.
Climbing Sigirya: is it Really Worth it?
No matter what you plan for, nor which version you end up with, a visit to this ancient rock fortress, a staggering monolith rising from the floor, absolutely is worth it.
And if you do it the way we did, you’ll understand why there’s a swimming pool rather than a temple waiting at the top.
Let me share with you what it’s like to climb Sigiriya and whether or not it makes sense for you to do the same.
Disclosure: I climbed Sigiriya Rock as a guest of Sri Lankan Tourism. However, as ever, as always, I kept the right to write what I like. Otherwise, what’s the point?
Sigiriya at a Glance
Sigiriya is also known as the Lion Rock. And as you climb, step by step, up its 1200 stone and steel stairs, it’s easy to feel the breath of the beast. Not just in the form of the gaping Lion’s Paw Terrace near the summit, but in the growl of your own breath, the pounding in your legs, and the silent awe that seeps in as the landscape unfolds beneath you.
Locals sometimes call it the Eighth Wonder of the World and when you see the blend of complexity, artistry and sheer physical effort, it’s hard to disagree.
What is Sigiriya?
Sigiriya is one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic landmarks, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that fuses art, nature and royal ambition in an unforgettable way.
In the 5th century, King Kasyapa (sometimes also referred to as King Kashyapa) built his palace atop this rock, transforming it into both a luxurious seat of power and a formidable fortress.
But don’t be fooled by my photos. This is a staggering sight to visit, one that’s difficult to capture easily in a single image. There is simply an enormous rock, the likes of which I have never seen in all my decades of professional travel, popping up like a shipwreck in a sea of tropical green.
And it’s only really as you draw close, clinging to the slippery rock stairs, that the magnificence of this engineering project sinks in.
It’s easy to list off the UNESCO style highlights: landscaped water gardens, delicate yet colourful frescoes, and the mouth of an enormous carved lion that could engulf a basketball team.
But it doesn’t take long before you start to realise that there is something wrong, here.
Something a little off.
There is a secret hidden in these ruins of an ancient civilisation.
But you have to climb it yourself to realise what it is.
Interested in exploring other sights with secrets? Here’s why Mysore Palace surprises everyone who visits.
The Climb: Step by Step
The start of the climb begins at the Water Gardens, symmetrical pools and stone paths at ground level. This is the easy part where most people can manage, although some of the ground is uneven.
These landscaped grounds are some of the oldest surviving examples of urban planning in South Asia, introducing hydraulic engineering while still managing to look stylish.
Water lilies and shaded pavilions betray the sweaty climb that is to come but it’s nice to be able to imagine royal processions gliding past the reflecting pools
Then come the Boulder Gardens, where twisted rocks and shady groves hint at a time when Buddhist monks meditated here long before kings claimed the land. If you look closely, some caves still bear inscriptions and traces of plaster, their faded surfaces all that is left of devotion and solitude. For there’s certainly none of that here today.
The climb needs you to squeeze through some gaps between boulders but the photographs make things seem worse than they are.
Then, the climb begins in earnest. Steep stone steps follow steep stone steps, although someone has thoughtfully inserted handrails in the slippiest sections.
There’s a respite area at the base of the lion’s paw, the Lion’s Paw Terrace, which gives phenomenal views of the surrounding area.
And it’s here where you can follow the whispers of ghosts and transport yourself back through the 1500 years to the reign of King Kasyapa and the sense of isolation and fear that led to him moving the capital here.
After that, it’s time for the rest of the climb. This is the toughest part, more for the mental rather than physical side of things. The rock is now so steep that the authorities have installed a narrow steel gantry and I really wouldn’t advise giving it a go if you have a fear of heights. Sigiriya is a popular place and, once started, it’s very difficult to give up and turn back due to the procession of other travellers.
For the final stretch, a narrow metal staircase clings to the side of the cliff, exposed to the wind and sky. As you grip the railings and inch upward, there’s a thrill and also a strange calm.
You’re walking the same path as ancient royalty, towards the very top of Sigiriya Rock. And you don’t yet have to think about how to get down.
At the Summit
The ruins of the royal palace may make archaeologists hearts sing but most of us stand spellbound by the view.
How, just how, is this rock here at all? Cliched though it sounds, there really is a sea of treetops stretching in each direction. A deep jade version of a view above the clouds, and a sense of living in heaven, even while the palace crumbles away.
But heavenly though it feels, as the minutes march on, a sense of foreboding starts to seep in.
Yes, you can see every attack that may be coming. But they can also see you.
And isolate you. No man is an island, after all.
Not to mention, the reality of the weekly shop and all those stairs every time you wanted to pop out for a pint of milk or an egg hopper. And what about sewage or bins?
As it turns out, there’s a story behind that (the isolation of Sigiriya, not how domestic responsibility now turns my thoughts to effective town planning.)
For King Kasyapa was not the rightful heir. He was the son of a concubine. Unhappy with his lot, he murdered his father, King Dhatusena, and exiled his half brother, all to seize power. He immediately retreated to and built Sigiriya Rock Fortress where he remained, fearful of his own assassination, but determined to live life well.
What remains of the palace is sparse, with low walls, foundations and the suggestion of a royal throne. It’s nicknamed the Asian Machu Picchu, but it’s harder to see the shape of the city than that.
Archaeologists have identified foundations of audience halls, royal chambers, and even a possible harem area, all strategically aligned to make the most of the breeze and the view.
What you can see without archaeological advice, though, is a clue to how the king spent his days. There’s a rockstar rooftop swimming pool. And state of the art images of scantily clad young women.
The Sigiriya Maidens
To reach the Sigiriya maidens, you need to climb down a little and take the metal platform to a spiral staircase before heading up again (yes, sorry, but your Sigiriya rock climb is not yet over.)
The journey passes along a rocky alcove and past the Mirror Wall, a surface so highly polished in its day that King Kasyapa could see his reflection as he passed by. Today, it bears 8th century graffiti and some poetic musings from visitors who admired the maidens above.
The maidens themselves involve twenty frescoes of celestial women, their arms heavy with flowers, their expressions frozen in time. Scholars believe they represent heavenly nymphs or royal concubines, though their true identity remains more of a mystery than the motivations of the scholars who chose this area of research.
Like Kasyapa before them, it’s all very well being up in the heavens. As long as you take your earthly pleasures with you.
Back Down to Earth
So, there you go, that’s how to climb the lion rock fortress. And in case you’re wondering what happened to the usurping, rock star king, his half brother fled to south India before returning with an army. As the conflict wore on, Kasyapa’s armies deserted him and he ended up taking his own life. The rightful heir was reinstated and life at Sigiriya Rock seemed to fade away.
And as for me? We made it to the top and back down again, chased by a vengeful downpour of rain, the sort that makes a mockery of earthly goods like clothes and umbrellas.
By the time I reached the car park, I could fill one of the ornamental pools simply by wringing out my clothes.
I didn’t mind, though. In fact, I loved the sense of adventure, a taste of life in the ancient city instead of a methodical, plodding field trip.
Fear built a fortress and centuries later, here we all are, chasing the ghosts of kings.
It makes no difference, though. As ever, nature has the final word.
Practicalities
Best time to visit: Aim for early morning (ideally before 8am) or late afternoon to avoid the heat and crowds. If you arrive late (ahem) bear in mind you need to get up and down before the site closes. Leave plenty of time – at least three hours so you are not rushed. Ideally more.
What to wear: Lightweight, breathable clothing, good walking shoes with a good grip, a hat, and sunscreen. Bring lots of water, too. And maybe some protein bars.
Entrance fees: Foreigners currently pay around $30 USD. Tickets can be bought at the main entrance from the ticket booths.
Fitness level: Moderate to high. The climb is steep and includes exposed staircases. Not recommended for those with vertigo or mobility challenges.
Facilities: Toilets and water stands are available at the base. There are no facilities on the rock itself.
Photography tips: The golden hour at the top offers stunning shots. Look out for the playful monkeys.
Beyond Sigiriya
If you want a quieter experience, try nearby Pidurangala Rock. It is supposed to offer a challenging climb and the best view of Sigiriya, often with fewer visitors and a more natural path.
For more ancient intrigue, consider visiting Dambulla Cave Temples, Polonnaruwa, or Anuradhapura, each steeped in history and architectural beauty.
FAQS About Sigiriya Lion Rock
Do I Need a Tour Guide?
No, you don’t, although a good tour guide will be able to help you appreciate more of what you’re looking at.
What Time Does the Site Open?
You can find all the details about opening times from the ticket office here.
Is it Suitable for Young Children?
Hm. For toddlers, no. For babies, fine if you can carry them but bear in mind there are no changing facilities en route. Older children should be fine and will likely make it look easy while you huff and puff your way up the final ascent…
Do You Need a Separate Ticket to See the Sigiriya Frescoes?
No, it’s included in your ticket but always check the most up to date information before you travel.
Do You Need to Be Able to Rock Climb?
No, luckily! The toughest part is the narrow spiral metal staircase and the 1200 steps in the sticky, tropical heat. But you don’t need any specialist skills and you don’t need to scramble up the rock face.
What if I Don’t Want to Do the Climb?
That’s fine! You can wander around the beautiful gardens at ground level and it’s still impressive to see the base of the rock with your own eyes.
Is it Worth Visiting North Sri Lanka?
More About Travel in Asia