The IWC Portugieser Chronograph In Ceratanium

I have always thought of the IWC Portugieser as an elegantly styled chronograph or a clean time-only watch. Until today, that is, because the brand from Schaffhausen introduces an all-black Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium. Yes, please take a moment to let that sink in. Previously, the light, scratch-resistant Ceratanium material was used only in IWC’s Pilot’s Watch collection. However, you can now try to get your hands on one of the 1,500 new IWC Portugieser Chronographs in Ceratanium.

I’m not sure if the people at IWC read Lex’s 2021 article on the Portugieser Chronograph. In it, he argued that the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is one of those “boring but brilliant” watches. Thanks to its nearly unchanged design, timeless proportions, and thoughtful execution, it’s a watch that ages better than one driven by constant innovation. If they did read it, it might’ve triggered them to do something completely different with the usually quite classically styled Portugieser Chronograph.

The all-black limited-edition IWC Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium

To make the transition to this new version of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph a bit easier, I’ll start by telling you what’s still the same. The case dimensions, for example, haven’t changed. That means it has a 41mm diameter and a 13.1mm thickness, with the latter being especially acceptable for an automatic chronograph.

That brings me to the movement inside the new Portugieser Chronograph. It’s still the same caliber 69355. This automatic column-wheel chronograph runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, features 27 jewels, and has a power reserve of 46 hours. So far, things are still looking quite familiar. Even the dial layout, with the big Arabic numerals, vertically placed sub-dials, and printed text at 3 and 9 o’clock, remains the same. But now we get to that completely new all-black outfit.

An all-black beauty

It all starts with the all-black case in IWC’s proprietary Ceratanium. This is a lighter, more scratch-resistant material than the stainless steel and gold of the usual Portugieser models. It’s also much less shiny due to its matte finish. On the case back, you’ll find a sapphire window with a smoky effect. This way, the movement blends in nicely with its darker environment.

Even though the dial layout is still the same, it feels completely different. The main dial is matte black, while the sub-dials stand out with their shiny azurage finish. The polished leaf hands and applied numerals also contrast nicely with the matte background. Of course, the printing on the dial is also black, but the thick, shiny ink is still readable in the tone-on-tone context.

Limited to 1,500 pieces

I’ll be honest: I’m not a big fan of blacked-out watches, and I liked the IWC Portugieser Chronograph in its more classic outfit. But this is certainly a very original version of the brilliantly boring IWC staple. The all-black design makes the Portugieser look sportier, and the rubber strap suggests that it shouldn’t be a problem to take it swimming. IWC gives this watch a 3-bar water resistance rating, which the brand specifies as safe for swimming or skiing.

The new IWC Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium is a limited edition of 1,500 pieces. It costs €15,000 and comes on a textured rubber strap with a matching Ceratanium pin buckle.

Let me know in the comments below what you think of this all-black IWC Portugieser.

Watch specifications