Gerald Charles introduces a colorful twist on its emblematic design with the Masterlink Gem-Set. For the very first time, the maison embraces gemsetting, bringing bright colors to the asymmetric case and integrated bracelet that define the model.
The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set comes in three versions, each limited to 10 pieces. Join me for a closer look!
Gerald Charles Masterlink background
The Masterlink collection builds directly on the 2007 Sarawak, a one-off commission created by Gérald Genta for the Royal Family of Sarawak. That watch was lavishly decorated with diamonds and rubies and valued at over €1 million.
The Sarawak
With the introduction of the Masterlink in the Gerald Charles catalog, the maison made Genta’s asymmetric integrated design available to enthusiasts for the first time. Featuring the brand’s signature “smile” at 6 o’clock and a bracelet that seamlessly flows into the case, it translated the eccentric Sarawak into a more wearable formal sports watch.
The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set
The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set takes this heritage and elevates it through gemsetting. Each bezel is crafted in white gold and set with 60 baguette-cut stones — either blue or red sapphires or vivid green tsavorites.
What makes them remarkable is the invisible setting technique. Each stone has been custom-cut to accommodate the Masterlink’s asymmetrical shape, leaving no visible metal between them. This not only enhances the brilliance of the gems but also represents an impressive technical feat, given the reduced metal surface.
The resulting watches shed some of the “regular” Masterlink’s subtlety in favor of a splash of color and joie de vivre. These aren’t for the faint of heart!
Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set specs
The case and bracelet of the Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set are 316L stainless steel and combine satin-brushed and polished finishes. Measuring 38mm square with a thickness of just 7.99mm, the case remains elegantly slim. Still, a 100m water resistance rating guarantees its versatility and readiness for daily use. The integrated bracelet features hidden screws, a folding clasp, and subtle ergonomic adjustments, ensuring comfort.
The silver dial offers a two-level construction with vertical sunburst finishing and applied vertical stripes rather than cut or stamped ones. Thirteen baguette-cut, bezel-matching gemstones mark the hours, while skeletonized baton hands complete the look.
Inside ticks the Gerald Charles 1.0 caliber, an ultra-thin automatic movement produced by Vaucher and equipped with a micro-rotor. Just 2.67mm thick, it delivers a 50-hour power reserve and operates at 3 Hz. The movement is visible through the case back’s sapphire display and decorated with snailing, Côtes de Genève, and circular graining. Its dark plates and clean lines give it a distinctly modern aesthetic.
Initial impressions of the Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set
My regular readers will know that I am all about the simple, base-model watch designs. The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set should not resonate with me, then. Somehow, though, I think the model pulls it off quite well. The smooth, monochromatic base watch lends itself very well to the sapphire/tsavorite treatment.
I think it is a matter of contrast. The stones don’t just jump out in color but also in texture. Watches like this often look overly busy or contrived, but that isn’t the case here. Paired with the fact that a Gerald Charles Masterlink is already a choice off the beaten tracks, I can see these gracing the wrists of some eccentric collectors. As an aside, I also like the design better without the Roman numerals, which is a nice bonus with these gem-set versions.
I already alluded to the fact that they aren’t for the faint of heart. I am afraid that, when it comes to gem-set wrist candy, I am a little too introverted to be the target audience. Objectively, though, I think these are very well done within the category of high-end, gem-set watches. I am sure the 30 pieces will land with excited Gerald Charles enthusiasts in no time at all.
What do you think of the new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set? Let us know in the comments section below!